Primal Grill 207 Recipes

Beer may be the beverage served at a lot of American cook-outs, but much of the world’s barbecue trail runs directly through regions famed for their wine. This show will focus on the important role vines and wines play in barbecue—the former as a wrapping and fuel; the latter as an ingredient in marinades and sauces. Trout grilled in grape leaves; red-wine marinated filet mignon; and an interesting twist on “beer can” chicken, made with cabernet sauvignon. So the next time you fire up your grill, don’t forget your corkscrew.

TROUT GRILLED IN GRAPE LEAVES
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    Source: Adapted from The Barbecue Bible, the recipe for Kolheeda on pg. 338
    Method: Direct
    Serves: 4
    Advance Preparation: 30 minutes for soaking the grape leaves

    16 to 24 grape leaves packed in brine
    4 whole trout (12 to 16 ounces each), cleaned
    Salt and freshly ground black pepper
    1 cup shelled walnuts
    2 cloves garlic, chopped
    2 tablespoons chopped fresh dill, or 1 tablespoon dried dill
    2 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro or parsley
    1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice, or more to taste
    4 paper-thin slices of lemon

    You’ll also need:

    Butcher’s string (optional)

    Rinse the grape leaves thoroughly under cold running water, then place them in a bowl with cold water to cover and let soak for 30 minutes, changing the water once or twice.  Drain the grape leaves and blot dry with paper towels.

    Rinse the trout inside and out under cold running water, and dry (inside and out) with paper towels.  Season (inside and out) with salt and pepper, then set aside.

    Combine the walnuts, garlic, dill, cilantro, and lemon juice in a food processor and process to a very coarse paste.  Taste for seasoning, adding salt and pepper to taste and more lemon juice as necessary; the mixture should be highly seasoned.  Spoon the stuffing into the cavities of the trout, dividing it evenly among them.

    Working with one trout at a time, arrange 2 or 3 grape leaves,, overlapping them slightly on a work surface to form a rectangle.
    Lay a trout on the grape leaves, and wrap up, tucking the ends under, leaving the head and tail exposed, but enclosing the stuffing.  (NOTE: If you like, secure the bundles by tying them at intervals with butcher’s string.)

    Set up the grill for direct grilling and preheat to high.

    When ready to cook, brush and generously oil the grill grate.  Place the wrapped fish on the hot grate.  Grill the fish until the grape leaves are nicely browned and the fish is cooked through, 3 to 6 minutes per side, testing for doneness by inserting a thin metal skewer into the thickest part of the fish; if it comes out very hot to the touch after 20 seconds, the fish is cooked.

    Using a thin spatula, transfer the fish to serving plates or a platter.  Garnish with the lemon slices, and serve at once.  (Unwrap the trout and discard the grape leaves before eating.)

       
    RED WINE CHICKEN
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    Source: Loosely adapted from Beer Can Chicken, pg. 82
    Method: Indirect
    Serves: 2 to 3

    For the chicken and marinade:

    1 chicken (3-1/2 to 4 pounds)
    1 small onion, thinly sliced
    2 cloves garlic, crushed
    2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil, plus 1 tablespoon for rubbing
    the chicken
    1 sprig of fresh thyme
    1 bay leaf
    1/2 teaspoon coarse salt
    1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
    1 bottle Cabernet Sauvignon

    For the rub:

    2 tablespoons herbes de Provence  (Use already prepared or make your own!See recipe below)
    1 tablespoon coarse salt (kosher)

    Remove the package of giblets from the body cavity of the chicken and set aside for another use.  Remove and discard the fat just inside the body and neck cavities.  Rinse the chicken, inside and out, under cold running water and then drain and blot dry, inside and out, with paper towels.

    Place the onion, garlic, 2 tablespoons of olive oil, the fresh thyme, bay leaf, and the 1/2 teaspoon each of salt and pepper in a deep nonreactive bowl or large resealable plastic bag.  Pour out 3/4 cup of the wine and set aside.  Pour enough of the remaining wine in the bowl or bag to cover the chicken.  Let the chicken marinate in the refrigerator, covered, for 3 hours, turning the bird several times so it marinates evenly.

    Make the rub: Combine the herbes de Provence and salt in a small bowl and mix.

    Remove the chicken from the marinade and pat dry with paper towels.  Discard the marinade.  Sprinkle 1 teaspoon of the rub inside the body cavity and 1/2 teaspoon inside the neck cavity of the chicken.  Drizzle the remaining tablespoon of olive oil over the outside of the bird, and rub or brush it all over the skin.  Sprinkle the outside of the bird evenly with the remaining rub.

    If cooking on a can: Using a church key-style can opener, make 2 additional holes in the top of an empty beer or soda pop can.  Using a funnel (or a careful hand), pour the reserved 3/4 cup of wine into the can.  Hold the bird upright, with the opening of the body cavity at the bottom, and lower the bird onto the can so the can fits snugly into the cavity.  Pull the chicken legs forward to form a sort of tripod, so the bird stands upright.  The rear “leg” of the tripod is the can.

    If cooking on a roaster: Fill the roaster with the reserved 3/4 cup of wine and position the chicken on top following the manufacturer’s instructions.

    Tuck the tips of the wings behind the chicken’s back.

    Set up the grill for indirect grilling and preheat to medium.  If using a charcoal grill, place a drip pan in the center. 

    When ready to cook, brush and oil the grill grate.  Stand the chicken up in the center of the hot grate, over the drip pan and away from the heat.  Cover the grill and cook the chicken until the skin is a dark golden brown and very crisp and the meat is cooked through (about 165 degrees F on an instant-read meat thermometer inserted in the thickest part of a thigh, but not touching the bone), about 1-1/4 to 1-1/2 hours.  If using a charcoal grill, you’ll need to add 12 fresh coals per side after 1 hour.  If the chicken skin starts to brown too much, loosely tent the bird with aluminum foil.

    If cooking on a can: Using tongs, hold the bird by the can and carefully transfer it in an upright position to a platter.

    If cooking on a roaster: Use oven mitts or pot holders to remove the bird from the grill while it’s still on the roaster.

    Present the bird to your guests.  Let the chicken rest for 5 minutes, then carefully lift it off the support (can or roaster).  Take care not to spill the hot wine or otherwise burn yourself.  Halve, quarter, or carve the chicken and serve with the Cabernet Sauvignon Barbecue Sauce, and of course, a bottle of exemplary Cabernet Sauvignon.

       
    CABERNET SAUVIGNON BBQ SAUCE
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    Source: Adapted from BBQ USA, pg. 664
    Makes about 1-1/4 cups

    2 tablespoons salted butter
    2 slices bacon, minced
    4 shiitakes, stemmed and minced
    3 to 5 large shallots, minced (for 3/4 cup)
    2 cloves garlic, minced
    1-1/2 cups Cabernet Sauvignon
    3/4 cup tomato sauce
    2 tablespoons brown sugar, or more to taste
    2 tablespoons honey
    1/2 teaspoon liquid smoke
    Coarse salt (kosher or sea) and freshly ground black pepper

    Melt the butter in a heavy nonreactive saucepan over medium heat.  Add the bacon and cook until it begins to render its fat.  Add the shallots and garlic and shiitakesand cook until just beginning to brown, 3 to 4 minutes, stirring with a wooden spoon. 

    Add all but 2 tablespoons of the wine and bring to a boil over high heat.  Let the mixture boil until reduced to about 1/3 cup, about 8 to 12 minutes.

    Reduce the heat to medium and stir in the ketchup, brown sugar, honey, and liquid smoke.  Season with salt and pepper to taste.  Let the sauce simmer gently until thick and richly flavored, 6 to 10 minutes.  Taste for seasoning, adding more brown sugar, salt, and/or pepper as necessary.  You can serve the sauce warm or at room temperature.  It will keep in the refrigerator, covered, for several weeks.  Bring to room temperature (or warm) before serving.

       
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    Makes 1 cup

    1/4 cup dried basil
    1/4 cup dried rosemary
    2 tablespoons dried oregano
    2 tablespoons dried summer savory (optional)
    2 tablespoons dried thyme
    2 teaspoons dried lavender
    2 bay leaves, finely crumbled
    1 teaspoon freshly ground white pepper
    1 teaspoon ground coriander
    1/8 teaspoon ground cloves

    Combine all ingredients in a bowl and mix with your fingers, crumbling any large rosemary leaves.  Transfer to a jar; cover, and store away from heat and light.  The mix will keep for several months.

    NOTES: Herbes de Provence is a spice blend that is commercially available at most supermarkets and gourmet stores.  Or, you can make your own using the recipe above.
       
    Onion Mixed Grill
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    Source: How to Grill, pg. 382
    Method: Direct
    Serves: 6

    2 to 3 pounds mixed onions, such as large sweet onions (Vidalias,      
    Mauis, Walla Wallas, or Texas Sweets), red onions, cipollini,
    pearl onions, shallots, green onions, scallions, and/or garlic

    About 1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
    Coarse salt and black pepper
    MERLOT- Honey Glaze (recipe follows)
    2 tablespoons minced fresh parsley
    3 tablespoons toasted pine nuts

    You’ll also need:

    12 slender bamboo skewers or wooden toothpicks, or more as needed; grill wok or vegetable grate (optional)

    If using large onions, peel and cut each one lengthwise in quarters or crosswise into 1/2-inch slices.  Skewer on bamboo skewers.
    If using smaller onions or garlic, peel and thread on toothpicks or bamboo skewers.  (Leave scallions whole.)  Brush the vegetables with oil.  Season with salt and pepper.  (Alternatively, you can grill the alliums in a grill wok or on a vegetable grate, in which case, there is no need to skewer them.)

    Set up the grill for direct grilling and preheat to high.  (If using a grill wok or vegetable grate, preheat that as well.)

    When ready to cook, spray or brush the wok or grate with oil or brush and oil the grill grate.  Arrange all the onions and garlic skewers on the hot grate, or toss the vegetables in the wok or on the vegetable grate.  Grill until nicely browned—even a little
    charred—on all sides, 4 to 8 minutes per side, or as needed.  If any of the skewered vegetables start to burn, move them to a cooler part of the grill.  (You may need to wrap the garlic cloves in aluminum foil to keep them from burning.)

    Transfer the onions to a platter and unskewer.  Drizzle the Merlot-Honey Glaze over them and sprinkle with the parsley and the pine nuts, if using.  Serve hot or at room temperature.  You can grill the onions and garlic several hours ahead of serving.

    Sub-Recipe:

    MERLOT HONEY GLAZE

    Makes about 1/2 cup

    1/4 cup Merlot wine
    ¾ cup balsamic vinegar
    3 tablespoons honey
    2 tablespoons sugar
    2 tablespoons soy sauce

    Place the vinegar, honey, sugar, and soy sauce in a heavy nonreactive saucepan and bring to a boil over medium heat.  Simmer the mixture until thick, syrupy, and reduced to about 1/2 cup, 6 to 8 minutes.  The glaze will thicken as it cools.

       
    WINE-MARINATED FILET MIGNONS
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    Source: How to Grill, pg. 69 (Shallot Marmalade is on pg. 461)
    Method: Direct
    Serves: 6
    Advance Preparation: 2 to 4 hours for marinating the meat

    6 filet mignon steaks (about 6 ounces each)
    6 strips bacon or pancetta (Italian bacon)
    2 cups dry red wine
    2 shallots, thinly sliced
    1 rib celery, finely chopped
    1 carrot, finely chopped
    2 cloves garlic, crushed with the side of a cleaver
    2 bay leaves
    2 sprigs fresh thyme, or 1 teaspoon dried
    1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
    10 to 12 juniper berries, crushed with the side of a cleaver,
    or 1/4 cup gin
    Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper
    2 tablespoons salted butter (1 1-inch piece)
    Shallot Marmalade (optional; see recipe below)

    You’ll also need:

    Butcher’s string

    Wrap a strip of bacon around the side of each steak and secure with butcher’s string.

    Place the wine in a nonreactive bowl and stir in the shallots, celery, carrot, garlic, bay leaves, and thyme.  Generously rub the steaks on both sides with some of the oil and place in a nonreactive baking dish.  Pour the wine mixture over the meat and top with juniper berries.  Pour any remaining oil over the meat and let marinate in the refrigerator, covered, for 2 to 4 hours, turning the steaks 2 or 3 times.

    Set up the grill for direct grilling and preheat to high.  When ready to cook, brush and oil the grill grate.

    Remove the meat from the marinade and drain well.  Season the steaks on both sides with salt and pepper and arrange them on the hot grate.  Grill until cooked to taste, 4 to 6 minutes each for the top and bottom for medium-rare.  Turn the steaks on their sides, rotating often, for 2 to 3 minutes to crisp the bacon.  Transfer the steaks to a platter, rub the tops with the butter (impale on the end of a fork), and let rest 3 minutes before serving.  Remove and discard the strings.  Serve the steaks with the Shallot Marmalade, if desired.

    Sub-Recipe:
    SHALLOT MARMALADE

    Makes about 1 cup, serving 6

    1 pound shallots, thinly sliced (about 4 cups); see NOTE below
    2 cups dry red wine
    1/4 cup balsamic vinegar, or more to taste
    1/4 cup honey, or more to taste
    2 tablespoons sugar
    1 pinch cayenne pepper
    1 pinch ground cloves
    About 1/2 teaspoon coarse salt
    About 1/2 teaspoon black pepper

    Place all the ingredients (use only a little salt and pepper to begin with) in a nonreactive sauté pan with 2 cups water.  The shallots should be completely covered.  Bring the mixture to a boil, reduce the heat to medium, and gently simmer the shallots, uncovered, until the liquid is completely absorbed, 30 to 40 minutes.  Stir from time to time, more frequently at the end.  You may need to lower the heat to keep the shallots from burning.

    Taste for seasoning, adding salt, pepper, vinegar, or honey to taste.  The marmalade should be a little sweet, a little sour, and very highly seasoned.  Transfer to clean (or even sterile) jars and store in the refrigerator for up to several weeks.

    NOTE: Red, white, or yellow onions can be substituted for shallots in this recipe.
       
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